This post covers our two and a bit days in the Bhuj area of Gujarat, specifically three outings arranged by CEDO, the Centre for Desert and Oceans. We arrived in the mid afternoon and immediately boarded their jeeps for an excursion in search of the critically endangered Sociable Lapwing.

Sociable Lapwings breed on the steppes of Central Asia and pass through the Middle East to winter in north-east Africa and western India. Once plentiful, habitat destruction has reduced the population to 5,600 breeding pairs, but winter counts in the Middle East and Turkey suggest that this might be an underestimate. They are scarce in India and this flock consisted of just seven birds.

In spite of their global rarity this species has turned up in the UK as an autumn vagrant with some regularity. There have been about 40 records in the UK since 1958, although none in the last few years. I have seen this species five times in Britain, in South Wales, Kent, Hampshire, Dorset and Scilly between 1984 and 2008. I have also seen it in Oman and Kazakhstan.

We also had good views of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse in the same area.

The day ended at a very birdy marsh but there were few places where we could get a view unimpeded by vegetation, and although the sunset was glorious it did little to aid the viewing conditions. In spite of this we saw many Common Cranes coming into roost, lots of waders, pelicans, a Red-necked Falcon and several Paddyfield Warblers.

The following day we were at an area of scrub soon after dawn and found a couple of Oriental (or Crested) Honey Buzzards still at their roost.

It wasn’t long after that our main target appeared, the enigmatic Grey Hypocolius. This a much sought after bird as it is placed in its own family (although thought to be most closely related to the Waxwings). As it breeds in Iran sightings come mainly from wintering areas, especially Bahrain (where I have seen it before but only in flight) and here in Gujarat. This is a male ….

….whilst the female lacks the black mask. There were quite a few family collectors in our group so this species was voted number 2 in the ‘bird of the trip’ contest – after Great Indian Bustard of course.

Other birds we saw that day included more Red-tailed Wheatears ….

…. Yellow-wattled Lapwings ….

…. Syke’s Lark, which was a life bird for me ….

…. the bulky Indian Bush Lark ….

…. with it’s very well-marked breast ….

…. and the rare and elusive White-naped Tit (another lifer).

We got better views of Indian Courser ….

…. and great views of Green Bee-eater. The new Lynx Illustrated Checklist treats Green Bee-eater as three species, the all-green viridissimus in Africa, the blue-headed cyanophrys in the Middle East and the blue-throated orientalis from southern Iran eastwards.

We only saw a few woodpeckers on this trip, this Yellow-fronted Woodpecker only posed briefly.

The selfie craze has reached India, these girls knocked on the door of our vehicle and asked for a selfie with Heidi.

The following day we left early and arrived at the coast to the west of Bhuj at dawn

The rising sun soon backlit the flats. Crossing the channels was quite hard for those who didn’t bring suitable footwear as we sunk well past our ankles in the soft mud, however the going was easier closer to the shore.

Behind us was a vast expanse of mudflats full of waders and gulls.

Wader/shorebird species included Little Stints ….

…. Sanderlings ….

…. Lesser Sandplovers (and the occasional Greater) ….

…. and Terek Sandpipers.

Whilst herons were represented by the familiar Grey Heron (which I hope doesn’t get tangled in the discarded fishing line)….

…. the almost cosmopolitan Great Egret (which should really be split into three species New World, Old World plus SE Asia and Australasia).

Western Reed Egrets are mainly dark phase here. In winter they occur as far east as Sri Lanka and Tamil Nadu, further east Eastern Reef Egret replaces it.

Most large gulls were Heuglin’s Gulls, currently treated as a subspecies of Lesser Black-backed Gull, but probably worth species status. The bird on the left is a Pallas’ Gull, a winter visitor from Kazakhstan, Mongolia and Tibet.

Here two Pallas’ Gulls in near adult summer plumage pose with a group of much smaller Slender-billed Gulls. Pallas’ Gulls used to be called Great Black-headed Gull but that invites confusion with the similar sounding Great Black-backed Gull and requires that the familiar Black-headed Gull’s name is given a modifier, usually Common Black-headed Gull (which in turn invites confusion with Common Gull). Pallas’ Gull also celebrates the life of Peter Pallas, a great explorer of Central Asia in the late 18th century.

We also saw a small number of Brown-headed Gulls, quite like Black-headed Gulls at rest but with a strikingly different wing pattern in flight.

Two birds stood out in our exploration of the coast. The first was a group of eleven Great Thicknees (seven seen here), a relative of the Stone Curlew.

Only present in rocky area, they gave superb views, far better than I have had before.

The second highlight was Crab Plover, another species in its own family. Several were seen some way off but as the tide came in they left the distant sandbar and flew towards us. At that moment my camera battery died and I found I had left he spare in the vehicle. This photo and the next were kindly given to me by tour leader Frank Lambert.

A Crab Plover with two Little Terns in winter plumage. Photo by Frank Lambert

Well that was that for the shining sands of Kutch. We headed back to CEDO making a few stops on route.

We passed through many settlements on route with their hard working villagers ….

…. and inevitable cattle-jams.

One village had a large colony of Indian Fruit Bats. In many part of the world fruit bats living so close to people would have been eaten but in India there is a respect for nature in spite of its burgeoning population.

We were able to get excellent views of the colony from the roadside

…. and watch the bats fly over the village as we enjoyed a glass of tea.

Our final stop was this gorge where we tried to improve on our earlier views of Indian Eagle-Owl, but to no avail.
That ended out time in Gujarat. The following morning we left early for a flight to Mumbai. Here we had several hours to kill before we took another flight to the city of Nagpur in the state of Maharashta, pretty much in the centre of the country. That will be the subject of the seventh and final post on Western India.
This post covers the first site we visited in Gujarat, the Desert Coursers camp near the Little Rann of Kutch.

After a final morning at Mt Abu we descended to the plain and continued south-westwards towards Gujarat. We met many cattle-jams on the road ….

…. passed through many traditional Indian villages ….

…. and makeshift camps of migrant workers.

Rubbish tips beside the road were a frequent sight ….

…. although it was quite surprising to find Peacocks foraging amongst the trash.

Among the many birds we saw on route were these Bhraminy Starlings …

…. and under a bridge we found a large colony of Streak-headed Swallows ….

…. although it was a job to get decent flight photos of them over the water.

Even before we had checked into the lodge we were shown this very obliging Pallid (or Bruce’s or Striated) Scops Owl in the grounds. The bird looked down at me at such a strange angle that I had to rotate the photo through 90 degrees for it to appear normal.

Like at Siana, transport was in these open-sided vehicles ….

which was fine in the afternoon sun, but in the early morning was very cold indeed ….

…. and extremely dusty as well.

Even so, I think it would be fair to say that some tour members rather overdid the protective clothing!

Most of the Little Rann of Kutch consists of barren mud flats. During the monsoon season storms force sea water over the area adding to the flooding caused by the heavy rain. As the water evaporates salt deposits build up over the millennia.

Temporary shelters spring up in the dry season as migrant workers harvest the salt deposits.

Salt pans can be seen in many places ….

…. and the product of their labour is piled up on the edge of the flats.

Much of the acacia woodland that surrounds the flats has been cut for firewood.

To cater for the need for firewood the Mexican mesquite bush was introduced a few decades ago and has spread explosively throughout western India. However acacia is still prefered as firewood, so the native wildlife-friendly acacia has been replaced by a wildlife-adverse alien. Shame they didn’t plant acacia saplings instead! Wintering Common Cranes are quite numerous in the area and can be seen feeding along the edge of the flats or in long Vs across the sky.

The Little Rann of Kutch is one of the last strongholds of the Asiatic Wild Ass or Onager.

The Onager is not the ancestor of the domestic donkey, that honour falls to the African Wild Ass of the Danakil area of Ethiopia and Somalia.

Once ranging from Israel to Siberia the range has contracted greatly and now only occurs in Iran, Pakistan and India plus parts of Central Asia.

As darkness fell we stayed to spotlight the restricted range Syke’s Nightjar.

After a morning of bustard searching on the flats we visited a nearby lake and in the surrounding fields found the endearing Indian Courser.

This group of Indian photographers were clearly watching what we were doing as within minutes of us finding the coursers they drove right into the field for closer views.

The lake held good numbers of Lesser Flamingos. The Little Rann of Kutch is the only area outside of Africa where Lesser Flamingos breed.

As well as Lesser Flamingos there were numerous other water birds, ducks, waders, Spoonbills and these Common Cranes.

A few Nilgai were seen along the lakeside ….

…. as well as a number of Onagers.

This stallion was getting hassled by feral dogs ….

…. but he soon gave them the boot (or should that be soon gave them the hoof?)

We were just about to leave the Little Rann of Kutch when we found this Rufous-tailed Lark close to the road.

But one of the top bird on most people’s agenda was the increasingly rare Macqueen’s Bustard which is now a scarce winter visitor from Central Asia. Formerly lumped with Houbara Bustard of North Africa and the eastern Canaries, this bird is the traditional target of Arab falconers and its numbers are dropping rapidly as a result. This bird was seen twice on the Little Rann of Kutch, both times briefly in flight and I missed it on the first occasion. Of course I didn’t get any photos so I have included one I took on the breeding grounds in Kazakhstan in 2005. This species is much smaller than the Great Indian Bustard, but just as hard to see and I only saw it on the final morning just before we headed off to our next stop at Moti Virani further north-east in Gujarat.

Let’s be corny and end with another glorious desert sunset.