Western India part 3: Desert National Park and Jaisalmer – 16th-18th January 2016   Leave a comment

This post covers our time at Jaisalmer. visiting the Desert National Park (DNP), the Fossil Wood Park and the ancient citadel.

 

IMG_2800 Hotel foyer

We had three nights at this very attractive hotel. We checked in during the afternoon and had time to spend a couple of hours in DNP before dark.

IMG_2699 Desert NP

Much of the DNP is what you would expect, that is desert; either low desert scrub, arid grassland or, in a few places, bare sand dunes.

IMG_2696 cattle in Desert NP

However there seems to be very little control over the use of the park and a large proportion has been taken over by pastoralists or is used for agriculture. The most famous inhabitant of the park is the Great Indian Bustard, a bird that once occurred over much of peninsular India but is now down to a few hundred individuals, mainly in DNP (plus one site in Gujarat where breeding has not been recorded for decades).

IMG_2823 turbines and pylons

If any Great Indian Bustards attempt to leave the Park they will be in trouble, on one side is the Pakistan border where they are likely to be shot for sport and the other three sides are ringed with up to a thousand wind turbines and associated electric pylons, a death trap for a large, heavy flying bustard.

IMG_2666 Stoliczka's Bush-chat

Another rare inhabitant of DNP is Stoliczka’s Bush-chat which we saw very well.

IMG_2674 BC Sparrow-lark

Naturally we saw many open country birds including flocks of Black-crowned Sparrow-larks ….

IMG_2686 Bimac

…. and the much larger Bimaculated Lark, which is showing its maculations off rather nicely in this pose. By far the commonest lark was Greater Short-toed Lark which occurred in the flocks numbering in the thousands but all remained distant and unapproachable.

IMG_2790 LB Pipit

Pipits were represented by the more familiar Tawny Pipit and somewhat similar Long-billed Pipit (above).

IMG_2769 Isabelline Wheatear

Isabelline Wheatears were if not common, at least regular. This species differs from the female of our familiar Northern Wheatear by its larger size, more upright stance, larger amount of black in the tail and the wing coverts concolourous with the mantle making the alula appear more obvious. Although I have seen many Isabellines wintering or on passage in Africa, the Middle East and South Asia and breeding in Central Asia I have always dipped when attempting to twitch vagrants in the UK.

IMG_2695 Desert Wheatear

Desert Wheatears were commoner than  Isabellines and although this shot is not as sharp as I would like, it does show off the ID features quite well, including the all black tail.

IMG_2965 Southern Grey Shrike

Most shrikes were Southern Greys (race laharota) ….

IMG_2729 Daurian Shrike

…. but we also saw a number of ‘isabelline’ shrikes. It is claimed that the word isabelline, referring to a pale yellow-brown or creamy-brown colour arises from a vow that Isabella of Castille made in 1491 to not change her clothes until the (eight-month) siege of Grenada was accomplished. Isabelline Shrikes are usually split into two species but the vernacular names are somewhat confusing. I prefer to call the more westerly phoenicuroides Turkestan Shrike and the easterly isabellinus Daurian Shrike (above) and use the name Isabelline just for the combined species. Bizarrely it is the more easterly taxon that occurs as a vagrant to Europe. Phoenicuroides winters mainly in Africa, isabellinus in the Middle East and India

IMG_2969 Laggar

There were quite a few raptors in the park, including this Lagger Falcon ….

IMG_2780 Long-legged Buzzard

…. Long-legged Buzzard (here a pale morph individual) ….

IMG_2725 Shikra

…. the little Shrika, a species of sparrowhawk ….

IMG_2773 Black Vulture

…. and the huge Cinereous Vulture. Often described as a flying barn door, this impressive bird is often called Black Vulture in the UK but this invites confusion with the well-known and ubiquitous Black Vulture of the New World. Cinereous, meaning ash-grey, isn’t strictly correct, they are more of a dark brownish-grey colour but it is a lot better than the dreadful ‘Monk Vulture’ that was proposed by ‘Dr Shamrock’ a decade or so ago. Cinereous Vultures are one of the biggest of the Old World raptors.

IMG_2707 White-eared Bulbul

Other birds seen included White-eared Bulbul which is slowly spreading westwards into the Western Palaearctic ….

IMG_2986 CCC

…. and after much searching and at the 11th hour, a group of Cream-coloured Coursers.

IMG_2741 Indian Bustard model

But in spite of much searching it seemed like the only Great Indian Bustard we were going to see was the giant model outside the park HQ. I was in the lucky position of having seen the species well in 1986, a time when they were much commoner, but to the rest of the group this was the raison d’être of the trip. we later found out that a rival tour group had to extend their time at DNP to three days in order to find any, something that would have annoyed me as it would have meant dipping elsewhere.

IMG_2765 Bustards poor

Mid afternoon we had a lucky break, a local birder had found a group quite some distance from where we we searching. We got there as soon as we could but the heat haze was dreadful and the birds just walked away if we tried to approach any closer. We had acceptable views of nine females, but as you can see no quality photographs.

Great Indian Bustard Arpit Deomurari Gujarat IBC

As a result I have posted this excellent photo from the Internet Bird Collection (taken in Gujarat the only other area to have any remaining Great Indian Bustards) by Arpit Deomurari.

IMG_2841 Fossil Wood Park

The following morning we visited the neighbouring Fossil Wood Park. The structures in the photo are shelters protecting fossilised tree trunks dating from the Jurassic period, 180-130 mya.

IMG_2829 Fossil Wood Park

Unfortunately in an attempt to protect them from theft or vandalism the fossil trunks are enclosed in wire cages.

IMG_2817 Desert Lark

Of course we were here for the birding and as the fossil wood was on rocky slopes we saw a number of species that were absent (or harder to see) in DNP, including Desert Lark – a bird that occurs as multiple subspecies, each one with plumage exactly matching the base colour of its desert habitat.

IMG_3549 Red-tailed Wheatear

We had excellent views of ‘red-tailed wheatear’. Like Isabelline Shrike this has been recently split into two species, the westerly xanthopyrmna Kurdish Wheatear and this one, chrysopygia which sometimes retains the combined name of Red-tailed Wheatear, but I prefer the vernacular name of Persian Wheatear as it immediately identifies which is the western and which is the eastern species.

IMG_3463 CB Sandgrouse pair

We also had some good views of Chestnut-bellied Sandgrouse making good use of what little shade was on offer.

IMG_2847 Jaisalmer

As we returned to Jaisalmer we could see the ancient fort, one of the largest fortifications in the world, rising above the plain.

IMG_2860 Jaisalmer

We had a tour around the ancient town during the hot part of the day near the ‘Bloody Good View’ hotel ….

IMG_2858 Jaisalmer

…. made our way past the shop selling ‘child’ beer (? chilled beer) ….

IMG_2867 Jaisalmer fort

…. and made our way to the ancient citadel that dominates Jaisalmer.

IMG_2868 Jaisalmer fort

Built in 1156 but damaged and rebuilt many times during its turbulent history, the fort consists of three massive concentric walls.

IMG_2873 acrobat

This young girl was showing off her acrobatic skills for the tourists.

IMG_2910 Jaisalmer

Then we entered the ancient, narrow, medieval streets of the old town.

IMG_2907 Jaisalmer

There were more cows and dogs in the road than vehicles ….

IMG_2901 Jaisalmer

…. and some cows had learnt that they could go from house to house in the hope of some spare chapatis.

IMG_2940 Jaisalmer

These ancient merchants houses or havelis have incredible stone carved facades, this one took 50 years to complete  ….

IMG_2924 Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer grew rich on the taxes imposed on passing caravans during the spice trade and this shows in the wonderful buildings …..

IMG_2917 Jaisalmer

I took loads of photos of these architectural wonders but can only room to show a few here.

IMG_2927 photography prohibited

Say no more!

IMG_2626 Desert sunset

So I’ll end this post on the Desert National Park with a desert sunset.

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